When you think of Guatemala, or traveling through Central America what comes to mind?
For me, before stepping foot into Guatemala, I imagined rolling mountains and green valleys. I dreamed about recreating the awesome pictures of jumping off the docks into the massive Lake Atitlan, with the mountains as a backdrop (the perfect profile pic). I thought about the bright, bustling markets with their exotic fruits, fresh vegetables and raw, stinking meats. I saw people on the streets coming and going, living their daily lives.

However, one thing that didn't come to mind right away was what those lives actually look like away from foreign eyes. Many times when we travel abroad, we forget to wonder or learn about the people living authentically day in and day out in a place that we are just passing through. Talking to many travelers like myself, I quickly realized that while people were genuinely interested in learning about the culture, language and people in Guatemala, they weren't necessarily putting themselves in positions to experience their lifestyles first hand.
While I was working with Rising Minds, the coordinator mentioned the workshops that they facilitated with people in the local communities. The variety of activities available astounded me. They had workshops ranging from making your own pair of shoes from scratch, to spending the day with a local Mayan fisherman, to creating your own colorful dies from plants. All of the workshops highlighted the extraordinary talents and skills of the ordinary Guatemalan.
I decided to immerse myself in a bit of this culture, and opted for two workshops: cooking a traditional meal, and making my very own organic shampoo. The same woman taught both workshops, so I got to spend two of my afternoons at her home in San Juan learning these special trades.
Hilda lives in a home shared with her mother, father, brother and two children. But someone must have spilled the beans that we were making something good that night. Soon, Hilda's two sisters, along with their husbands and children all arrived to help with the eating part of that night's workshop.
We made a simple dish called
Patin, a popular dish originating from a town around the lake called Santiago
. After a quick trip to the market for ingredients, we returned home to start the long prepping process. This dish only has 3 ingredients-Tomatoes, beef marinated in lime and salt, and large banana leaves for wrapping up the mixture. Should be easy, right?
Think again. As I glanced across the kitchen to the perfectly working blender, Hilda pulled out her
piedra de moler, a large, granite stone grinder, complete with a stone rolling pin that had been handed down from her grandmother, to mash every single tomato.
"It adds a special flavor that can not be replaced," she said, as she showed me the technique of rolling out the tomatoes. "Our ancestors used this
piedra for all of their cooking and it's the only way to make a good
Patin."
I don't know how these women do not have bodybuilder arms. This was no easy task. As I stood fumbling with the stone roller and mashed tomatoes spilling over the sides, the sisters and mother gossiped in their native
Tz'utujl, and the kids laughed at my poor technique. Several times Hilda and her sisters stepped in to help me out. I mean, we did intend to eat that night and at my pace we were having
Patin for breakfast.
 |
| My weak and feeble attempts at using the piedra de moler. |
Finally after about an hour or more of grinding tomatoes, we added the paste to the meat cooking on the fire. From there the process was simple. We wrapped the thickened mixture into the banana leaves and let them cook a bit longer.
Overall, the process took 2-3 hours to complete. We sat together and opened our warm, steamed banana leaves and dug in. The dish is eaten with tortillas and we had homemade black flour tortillas. Hilda explained that she makes her tortillas by hand in the early morning and freezes them so they taste fresh at night. I couldn't help feeling slightly relieved that I didn't have to go through that process as well.

Along with a very sweet cup of coffee, the meal was the best I had eaten in Guatemala. But it wasn't the best because it was authentic, or homemade, or even because I cooked it the traditional way.
It was the atmosphere that made it so great. I was sitting with a family, listening to their conversations about school, work and their days. They switched between Spanish and Tz'utujl, and passed the cups of coffee around for everyone to share.
I felt like I was being given a very special insiders view into the lives of this family. For one night, I was part of them as they shared their home, food and traditions with me.
I endlessly thanked Hilda and her family for the wonderful food and memorable experience. I left that night with plans to return the next day to make our organic shampoo from aloe vera leaves and other herbs (another arduous, painstaking process...but with incredible results).
In two days time, I felt that I had learned more about the Guatemalan people and their beliefs than I had in the two weeks I had been living in the next town over. It made me a little sad to think I had waited this long to dive straight into the heart of Guatemala and into the lives of its unique people. These moments-like dinner with Hilda and her family, working with the teachers and children at the school, discussing beliefs and customs with my Spanish teacher, cracking jokes with my taxi drivers, or sharing stories with the people I encountered- these are the ones that stand out the most in my mind of what made my time in Guatemala not just a beautiful landscape and fun activities. They made it real, personal and lasting. They made it feel like home.